Engraved ivory-coloured tiles clatter across the table as four players study their racks in silence. Fingers move swiftly over a green felt mat, drawing a tile, discarding another and rearranging neat rows with practised ease. A quiet “chao” announces a claimed tile, briefly breaking the concentration before the game resumes. Around the table, strategy unfolds as memory, observation and a measure of luck compete for the winning hand.
Once confined to a handful of enthusiasts, Mahjong, the centuries-old Chinese tile game, is finding an enthusiastic following in Visakhapatnam, mirroring the surge in popularity it has witnessed in metros such as Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai.
The rise has been swift enough for enthusiasts to form the Vizag Mahjong Club, which today has over 60 members and conducts regular learning sessions and practice games. What began as a handful of women drawn to the game out of curiosity has developed into a structured community with weekly meet-ups, beginner workshops and players progressing through different skill levels.
Vizag Mahjong Club members in Visakhapatnam.
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“We began as a small WhatsApp group last October,” says Sweta Joshi, one of the founding members of the club. “Four of us decided to learn Mahjong and completed all seven levels. Hoping to introduce the game to Vizag, we announced a free introductory session at a café. Nobody turned up and we wondered if the city was ready for Mahjong at all,” she adds. That changed within months.
The turning point came when Hyderabad-based Mahjong instructor Deepa Dodla, popularly known as Madam Mahjong, visited Visakhapatnam earlier this year to conduct a workshop. The event drew attention on social media and curiosity began translating into registrations.
“Our first formal beginner’s class in April sold out almost immediately,” says Sweta. “We had planned for three tables and every seat was taken. Since then we have been holding weekly sessions and the response has continued.”
Interest has spread largely through social media, word of mouth and photographs shared by participants after each session. Many first-time players arrive believing Mahjong is an intimidating game reserved for seasoned card players, only to discover otherwise. “We have taught people who have never played cards in their lives,” says Sweta. “Sometimes that actually helps because they begin with an open mind instead of comparing it with other games. After the first three rounds, most people are comfortable with the basic flow.”
A beginner’s session typically lasts about two hours, during which participants learn how to build the wall of tiles, arrange the rack, draw and discard correctly and recognise winning combinations. One game usually takes between 15 and 25 minutes.
“The game also teaches you how to lose gracefully,” says Anita Nuthakki, among the city’s earliest Mahjong players. “You may have planned everything perfectly, but the tile you need may never come. Luck always has a role alongside strategy.”
Anita first discovered Mahjong during a Diwali visit to Mumbai last year. “Friends were playing and I became curious. I learnt the game through online coaching and, when I returned to Vizag, I found others who shared the same interest,” she says.
People playing a game of Mahjong organised by Vizag Mahjong Club in Visakhapatnam.
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She believes the club’s welcoming atmosphere has played a key role in its growth. “Most beginners need four or five practice sessions before they gain confidence. After that, they usually become regulars. We wanted everyone to feel comfortable learning the game.”
The surge in interest has also resulted in a demand for Mahjong sets. Less than a year ago, enthusiasts struggled to find equipment in India.
“When I started learning last year, I could find only imported sets online and they were expensive because they came from the US,” Anita says. “Within two or three months, when demand increased, several local vendors started stocking them. Today, you can even find Mahjong sets at stores like Crossword and other popular toy stores.”
Workout for the mind
For Sweta, the attraction lies beyond competition. “It is a mental workout,” she says. “For two hours, nobody looks at their phone. Everyone is thinking, calculating and observing. It sharpens concentration without feeling like work.”
Although Mahjong is often mistaken for gambling because of its association with card rooms in popular culture, she says the local club follows a very different approach.
“There is no money involved in our games,” she says. “People come for the challenge, for companionship and for the satisfaction of improving with every session.”
The origin
Though its precise origins remain debated, historians broadly agree that Mahjong evolved during China’s Qing dynasty in the 19th century before travelling far beyond its homeland. By the 1920s, the game had become a fashionable pastime in the West, particularly among American women, who developed their own rulebook through the National Mah Jongg League, giving rise to a distinct American variant.
A game of Mahjong
Today, more than 40 recognised variants exist worldwide, including Chinese Classical, Hong Kong, Japanese Riichi, Taiwanese and American Mahjong.
In India, however, the Chinese style found a home in Kolkata’s Chinatown and later in military cantonments, where army and naval wives welcomed it as both a social ritual and a game of skill. Back in Mumbai, the Wellington Club played a key role in formalising the Chinese version in India, publishing a rulebook that continues to guide players across the country.
After years as a niche pastime, Mahjong has enjoyed a revival, fuelled by social media, celebrity influencers and a growing appetite for screen-free recreation. Interestingly, while the game welcomes all genders, the current resurgence is being led by women.
A game of Mahjong.
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From homemakers and entrepreneurs to working professionals, many see Mahjong as much more than a board game. “It’s a reason to gather, unwind and build lasting friendships,” says Kaumudi Mattapalli, a core member of the Vizag Mahjong Club. “Once you learn one version, you’re naturally curious to explore the others,” she adds. The club itself has developed a house variant, rooted in the Chinese style yet adapted to make the game easier for anyone to pick up and enjoy.
To join the club, contact Instagram handle @vizagmahjongclub.
