There is something to be said about a restaurant that defies the norm of constantly trying to redefine itself. In the food and beverage industry, notorious for its obsession with the next big trend and fleeting gastronomic fads, Kwality stands as a rebel. And it has been rebelling for 86 years now.
Since 1940, its flagship home in Connaught Place has stood as an archive of Delhi’s cultural and political evolution. Its tables have played host to Prime Ministers like Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, and Atal Bihari Vajpayee, and global dignitaries like German Chancellor Olaf Scholz. Now, for the first time in decades, the legendary institution has crossed the border and opened its second outlet at DLF CyberHub, Gurugram.
Interiors of Kwality
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Divij Lamba, the third-generation restaurateur carrying the torch forward alongside Dhruv Lamba, believes firmly that Kwality has endured because they have resisted the pressure to constantly reinvent themselves. “Our recipes have remained remarkably consistent over the decades, and guests return not only for the food but also for the familiarity of an experience that has been passed down through generations,” he says.
The story goes that his grandfather PL Lamba, who founded Kwality in pre-Independence India, started out by making hand-churned ice cream after learning the craft from an American GI in the 1940s. “One of the stories passed down is of him cycling across the city to deliver ice cream to customers. There was no sophisticated cold chain, so quite often the ice cream would begin melting before it reached its destination. Yet, he persisted,” says Divij. That persistence paid off when another American soldier suggested selling ice cream and chips to moviegoers outside Regal Cinema. Connaught Place was just emerging as the social heartbeat of the capital, and an icon was born.
Jawarharlal Nehru at Kwality
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
For decades, the family felt no need to expand. So, what changed? “The decision was driven entirely by our customers,” Divij explains with a smile. “For years, we had patrons traveling all the way from Gurgaon to Connaught Place, often spending more time on the road than at the restaurant. This isn’t an attempt to build a mass chain. It’s an extension of hospitality – bringing the experience closer to a community that has supported us for generations.”
The Gurgaon outlet exudes the same old-world charm that the OG in CP is associated with. The walls are a visual museum – adorned with wood, marble, hand-laid mosaic flooring, and over a hundred rare vintage photographs of yesteryear Delhi captured by the legendary photographer Madan Mahatta. At the heart of the room sits Kwality’s signature piano, filling the air with live melodies that make you forget the modern metro line humming just a few hundred metres away.
Chaat
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
With Gurgaon having a slightly different dining culture, including a large, young professional and corporate audience, they have introduced a selection of bar bites, expanded dessert offerings and a dedicated kakori section prepared by master chefs from Lucknow.
But the true litmus test of Kwality lies on the plate. Specifically, in its iconic chole bhature. The recipe dates back to PL Lamba’s favourite halwai at his summer home in Mussoorie. It is a formula so fiercely guarded and strictly maintained that it has remained completely untouched for generations. The chole bhature with its crisp, puffed-up bhatura and slow-cooked channa with a blend of secret spices is rich, flavourful and worth the calories. We wash it down with good ‘ol shikanji, a street-classic elevated with roasted cumin, followed by a smoked aam panna, which is sufficiently tart and refreshing. The palak patta chaat remains crisp under a blanket of sweetened yogurt, tamarind and mint chutneys, while the dahi kebab has a creamy centre that instantly dissolves on the palate. However, the menu hits a couple of contemporary missteps with the edamame kakori, which has a pasty texture. Fortunately, the kitchen redeems itself with the Kwality kakori, which is unbelievably soft, and the mildly spiced murgh malai tikka. The meal culminates with the indulgent butter chicken, another signature dish that favours the comforting old-school Delhi style and then the slow-baked chocolate cake with ice cream.
Chole bhature
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
Now that Gurgaon has its own Kwality, it will be up to a new generation of diners to decide if they can slow down long enough to appreciate a menu that is in no rush.
Kwality is at Building 8, DLF Cyber City, DLF Phase 2, Sector 24, Gurugram. A meal for two costs ₹1,800. For reservations, call 9910986300.
Published – July 03, 2026 08:16 am IST
