The story of Bengali food is often told through rivers, fish and fertile soil. Less often it is told through railway platforms, refugee colonies and the ingenuity of people who arrived with almost nothing, except memory.
When millions were displaced during the Partition of 1947, those crossing from East Bengal into West Bengal did not carry heirloom utensils or sacks of treasured ingredients. Most travelled light because they had no choice. What endured was something far harder to confiscate: a culinary memory bank accumulated over generations. The food they cooked in their new homes became a record of loss, adaptation and survival.
Bengali food is informed by cooking traditions of its settlers
| Photo Credit:
Getty Images
“People came with very little. What they carried was memory and a legacy of food,” says food researcher Amrita Bhattacharya who, along with her husband, academic Amit Sen, runs Handpicked by Amrita a farm-to-table supper club from their home in Shantiniketan’s Bolpur. These food legacies have changed Bengali kitchens.
Amrita Bhattacharya
| Photo Credit:
Handpicked by Amrita
Across refugee settlements that sprang up around Kolkata and elsewhere in the State, cooking became an exercise in survival. Families had to feed children despite limited resources and uncertain incomes. Out of those constraints emerged a culinary philosophy that modern food culture would later celebrate as sustainable and zero-waste.
Vegetable peels found their way into elaborate preparations. The stems of spinach became one dish while the leaves became another. Pumpkin yielded multiple recipes from a single vegetable. Even the water left behind after preparing chhana (curdled milk) was consumed. Rice starch, known as fyan, was tempered with spices and served as a nourishing broth to children.
Amrita at work
| Photo Credit:
Handpicked by Amrita
“What we now call zero-waste cooking was often the ingenuity of people trying to feed a family with very little. They were not thinking in terms of sustainability. They were operating with very little and used creativity to survive,” says Amrita.
Many of these preparations have since become so integrated into Bengali food culture that their origins are easily overlooked. Yet they emerged from a moment when thousands of families were rebuilding their lives from scratch.
Bengali food is milieu of mixed traditions.
| Photo Credit:
Handpicked by Amrita
Popular narratives often reduce East Bengali culinary heritage to a handful of ingredients, particularly dried fish or shutki. Amrita believes that such assumptions oversimplify a much broader history.
The deeper influence lies in a style of cooking defined by restraint.
Amrita traces this sensibility through her own family history. Her grandparents, who came from the Pabna-Rajshahi region in Bangladesh, cooked fresh fish with remarkable minimalism. Fish was rarely fried. Instead, it was simmered gently with turmeric, salt, green chillies and a light tempering. Prawns were often boiled and eaten with rice. Delicate river fish appeared in thin broths that allowed the flavour of the fish itself to dominate.
The approach stands in contrast to many contemporary Bengali kitchens, where richer gravies and heavier seasoning have become commonplace.
Bengal and the Andamans
Following Partition, thousands of Bangladeshi refugees were resettled in the Andaman Islands. Among them were many Namasudra families whose agricultural and fishing skills made them suitable candidates for life in an unfamiliar frontier landscape. There they encountered a radically different environment.
Communities accustomed to freshwater fish suddenly had to adapt to seafood. They learned to fish in creeks and backwaters, identify edible leaves and understand an ecosystem entirely unlike the one they had left behind.
In 1956, 35 farming families, comprising 196 members, drawn from several parts of Travancore left Madras harbour for the Andaman islands by SS Maharaja, for permanent settlement. They were accompanied by GV Kshirasakar, Deputy Commissioner of the Andamans. The image shows a group of people embarking the vessel.
| Photo Credit:
The Hindu Archives
“It was a different kind of struggle. People had to learn which plants could be eaten, which could be dangerous and how to survive in a completely new landscape,” notes Amrita.
“The food of Bengali settlers in the Andamans, in many villages, the cooking remains closer to the East Bengal of decades ago than what we find in present-day West Bengal. In isolated settlements, fish curries and prawn are boiled in coconut milk often containing only a touch of ‘phoron’ (five spices of cumin, fenugreek, fennel, black mustard and nigella) and a simple tempering. Meat dishes frequently avoid the yoghurt and dairy enrichments that have become common elsewhere,” explains the food anthropologist.
As East Bengali refugees settled across West Bengal, their food mingled with local ingredients and culinary habits. Distinct traditions gradually merged, producing flavours that belonged fully to neither side of the border.
Partition of Punjab
Partition transformed food cultures across northern India, particularly in Punjab. Communities migrating from Pakistan’s Rawalpindi and Peshawar carried with them culinary traditions that would eventually influence everything from chicken tikka to the culture of roadside dhabas.
Amrita points to the evolution of the ‘sanjha chulha’ or the community oven once found in villages across undivided Punjab.
A traditional tandoor.
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
“It was largely managed by women. Families would prepare dough at home and gather around a shared oven. After Partition, that community structure changed and eventually evolved into the tandoor culture associated with dhabas,’’ she says.
In Bengal, Punjabi settlers adapted to local ingredients over time. Community kitchens incorporated regional vegetables and cooking styles. Dishes that once relied on one set of greens began appearing with Bengal’s lal shaak (red spinach) and kalmi shaak ( water spinach). Culinary exchange flowed in both directions.
Bengal’s Burmese connection
In the decades surrounding the Second World War, many Bengalis returned from Burma under circumstances that closely resembled refugee journeys. Settling in areas such as Kolkata’s Barasat and Subhashgram, they brought back culinary traditions acquired across the Bay of Bengal.
Mohinga
| Photo Credit:
Getty Images
Their influence survives in dishes such as mohinga, Myanmar’s beloved fish and noodle soup. Even today, versions of the fish-based broth can be found in neighbourhoods associated with former Burmese settlements. Families continue to prepare khow suey at home, while ceramic bowls made of Chinese clay, once used for these meals remain treasured heirlooms.
Amrita believes another overlooked refugee contribution lies in ethnobotanical knowledge: an intimate understanding of edible plants, leaves and greens.
The ecology of East Bengal fostered familiarity with a vast range of leafy vegetables and aquatic plants. That knowledge travelled across borders, influencing how ingredients were used and valued.
Fish scales became crisp snacks rich in collagen and calcium. Ageing coconuts were turned into fritters rather than discarded. Multiple varieties of dal evolved into delicacies.
Every fish broth, peel fritter and humble bowl of rice starch carries the imprint of a journey. The trains have long stopped arriving, but the migrations that reshaped Bengal still linger at the dining table.
Published – June 20, 2026 08:00 am IST
