In Kerala, a squabble over shirts and seers
Sugin G. Nair, a 44-year-old interior designer, chants a hymn as he walks down the granite-laid path encircling the Chuttambalam, or outer enclosure, of the Siva temple in Ernakulam. The air is cold and fragrant with the smell of incense. Nair is dressed in a blue dhoti. His shirt, hung on his right arm, gently…