Best non-vegetarian food in Madurai: 8 iconic messes and what to order

Amsavalli Bhavan

Amsavalli is a good place to begin your day if you are looking for a heavy breakfast. Started 75 years ago, the restaurant on East Veli Street has an old-world charm: think marble-topped tables and a hand-painted nameboard. They are best known for their mutton offal dishes such as liver curry, brain fry, and kidney curry, paired with uthappams and parottas. The mutton nenju chops, a semi-dry curry, and the fiery mutton chukka go well with their flaky parottas. Round-off breakfast with a chilled glass of their famous apple milk, that consists of tiny pieces of apple served with thick, sweet milk. Open for breakfast from 9.30am to 11am.

Mutton chops served for breakfast with uthappam and parotta.
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G

At 42, East Veli Street, Nelpettai

Chandran Mess

Chandran Mess, that has two branches in Madurai, is a popular destination for non vegetarian food such as ayirai meen kuzhambu, mutton chukka and viraal fish fry.
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G

Tourists and residents alike swear by Chandran Mess’ ayirai meen kuzhambu. It consists of a tangy curry simmered with shallots, curry leaves, and a masala ground by R Banumathi, the matriarch of the family that runs the place. They are also known for viraal meen roast that comes coated in a spicy masala, courtesy Banumathi. Pair this with their fragrant rasam. Mutton chukka, a dense, thick gravy in which the meat is let to simmer in a red chilli-based masala and naatu kozhi chops, also go well with rice. Chandran Mess’ kola urundai, a deep-fried dish of minced mutton that is infused with the flavour of fennel and cumin seeds, is another must-try.

At 19 P, Vinayaga Nagar, KK Nagar, Third Street, opposite the District Court, and 49, Alagar Kovil Main Road, Tallakulam

A peek into Chandran Mess’ kitchen
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MOORTHY G

Amma Mess

Ayirai meen kuzhambu, the signature dish of Amma Mess in Madurai.
| Photo Credit:
ASHOK R

Think Amma Mess and its famous ayirai meen kuzhambu comes to mind. But the eatery has a cult following for its other dishes as well: nandu omelette, mutta kari, mutton chukka, nalli elumbu chops and nenjelumbu chops. Their elai sappadu is hugely popular. The meal lets one try all their spicy gravies with rice. Customers usually order a kola urundai or two, and there is also fish fry to try. Amma Mess is popular amidst the Tamil film fraternity, many of whom plan regular trips to Madurai for their fix of mutton and chicken specials.

At 136, Alagar Kovil Main Road, Tallakulam

Manapatty Murugesan Mess

Manapatty nei chukka, a dish of mutton with a smattering of ginger, garlic and red chillies, slow-cooked over wood fire.
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G

A relatively new entrant in the scene, this eatery features wedding-style biryani made the way caterers in Manapatty village would make it. It was started eight months ago by the father-son duo P Murugesan and M Balasundhar, who want to popularise the non-vegetarian dishes of their village in Melur. Murugesan is one among several popular wedding caterers from Manapatty, a village known for being home to several wedding caterers. The biryani here is made with seeraga samba rice and is richer and less spicy than the Dindigul variety. Apart from typical vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals that include the elumbu kuzhambu, kudal kuzhambu, and chinna vengaya oorga, Manapatty Murugesan Mess also serves a signature mutton nei chukka. The dish consists of slow-cooked mutton and plenty of cashews for that crunch, left to soak in the nutty flavour of gingelly oil.

At Shenbagathottam Colony, Melamadai.

Manapatty mess serves biryani and mutton chukka
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G

Also try lunch here

Kari dosa served with spicy mutton gravy at Konar Kadai
| Photo Credit:
MOORTHY G

Kumar Mess is known for kari dosa, mutton liver and brain fry; Hotel Sri Janakiram for mutton chukka and biryani; order parotta, milagu kulambu and kari dosa at Arumugam Mess; and visit Simmakkal Konar Kadai for kari dosa.