Kathmandu:

A Nepali teenager, the youngest person ever to scale all 14 of the world’s tallest peaks, says he wants to use his skills to benefit the Himalayan nation’s Sherpa community and turn out world-class athletes.

Sherpas, an ethnic group living mainly in the vicinity of the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest, are known for climbing skills that make them the backbone of mountain expeditions.

They fix ropes, ladders, carry loads, cook and guide foreign climbers, earning from a single expedition amounts that range from $2,500 to $16,500 or more, depending on experience.

“I want to see Sherpas as global athletes, not just guides,” said Nima Rinji Sherpa, 18, who last week climbed Shishapangma, the world’s 14th highest peak at 8,027 m (26,335 ft), in Tibet.

“We deserve the same privilege as Western climbers,” added the 12th grader, who began climbing at the age of 16, and scaled all 14 peaks exceeding 8,000 ft (2,438 m) in the last two years.

He said he planned to exploit his climbing skills to build contacts with donor agencies, mobilising funds and support for schools, hospitals and activities to benefit the mountain community.

“I want to be a medium between the community and donor agencies,” Nima said on Wednesday, the lower portion of his face still black from burns caused by the sun’s reflections off the snow during his climb.

The son of a veteran Everest climber who now runs his own company organising expeditions, Nima bested the record of Mingma Gyalu Sherpa of Nepal, who was 30 when he achieved the feat in 2019.

His most demanding effort was the 8,034-m (26,358-ft) climb of Pakistan’s Gasherbrum II last year directly after having scaled Gasherbrum I, the world’s 11th highest peak at 8,080 m (26,510 ft), in 25 hours without proper rest and food, he said.

Nima said muscle cramps were his biggest physical challenge as his “fragile” teenage body had not finished growing, adding, “I am not as strong as I should be.”

He was caught in a small avalanche on Nepal’s Annapurna I peak this year after a fall of about 5 m to 10 m (16 ft to 32 feet) on Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat last year, but luckily escaped serious injury both times.

“I never push myself beyond my bounds,” he said. “There is (the need for) good judgment. There is (the need for) safety.”

This winter, Nima aims for an alpine-style climb of Nepal’s Mount Manaslu, the world’s eighth highest peak at 8,163 m (26,781 ft).

An 8,000-m mountain has never been climbed in winter in alpine style, he said, referring to the technique in which climbers tackle the summit in one go, without oxygen and relying chiefly on themselves, with minimum support.
 

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Kanchha Sherpa in Kathmandu, Nepal. He was among the 35 members in the team that put New Zealander Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa guide Tenzing Norgay atop Mount Everest
| Photo Credit: AP

The only surviving member of the mountaineering expedition that first conquered Mount Everest said Saturday that the world’s highest peak is too crowded and dirty, and the mountain is a god that needs to be respected.

Kanchha Sherpa, 91, was among the 35 members in the team that put New Zealander Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa guide Tenzing Norgay atop the 8,849-meter (29,032-foot) peak on May 29, 1953.

“It would be better for the mountain to reduce the number of climbers,” Mr. Kanchha said in an interview in Kathmandu on Saturday, “Right now there is always a big crowd of people at the summit.”

Since the first conquest, the peak has been climbed thousands of times, and it gets more crowded every year. During the spring climbing season in 2023, 667 climbers scaled the peak, but that brought in thousands of support staff to the base camp between the months of March and May.

Trash generation

There have been concerns about the number of people living on the mountain for months on end, generating trash and waste, but authorities have no plans to cut down on the number of permits they issue to climbers.

There are rules that require climbers to bring down their own trash, equipment and everything they carry to the mountain or risk losing their deposit, but monitoring has not been very effective.

“It is very dirty now. People throw tins and wrappings after eating food. Who is going to pick them up now?” Mr. Kanchha said. “Some climbers just dump their trash in the crevasse, which would be hidden at that time but eventually it will flow down to base camp as the snow melts and carries them downward.”

Qomolangma

For the Sherpas, Everest is Qomolangma or goddess mother of the world, and is revered by their community. They generally perform religious rituals before climbing the peak.

“They should not be dirtying the mountain. It is our biggest god and they should not be dirtying the gods,” he said “Qomolangma is the biggest god for the Sherpas but people smoke and eat meat and throw them on the mountain.”

Mr. Kanchha was just a young man when he joined the Hillary-Tenzing expedition. He was among the three Sherpas to go the last camp on Everest along with Hillary and Tenzing. They could not go any further because they did not have a permit.

They first heard of the successful ascent on the radio, and then were reunited with the summit duo at Camp 2.

“We all gathered at Camp 2 but there was no alcohol so we celebrated with tea and snacks,” he said. “We then collected whatever we could and carried it to base camp.”

The route they opened up from the base camp to the summit is still used by climbers. Only the section from the base camp to Camp 1 over the unstable Khumbu Icefall changes every year.

Mr. Kanchha has four children, eight grandchildren and a 20-month-old great-granddaughter. He lives with family in Namche village in the foothills of Mount Everest, where the family runs a small hotel catering to trekkers and climbers.