At Flurys, time steeps gently, like tea leaves in hot water. Outside, Park Street swells with taxis, office-goers and the familiar chaos of Kolkata in May. Inside, teaspoons clink against porcelain cups, like they have for nearly a century, and waiters carry teapots with solemn concentration.

Founded in 1927 by Swiss expatriate couple Mr and Mrs J. Flurys, the tearoom captures erstwhile Calcutta’s nostalgia, served with patties, baba cakes (a dry fruit cake infused fruit dry fruits), rum balls and tea.

On International Tea Day, we take notes from Dhrubojyoti Das, a senior F&B executive at Flurys for over 12 years now, on how to brew a cup of perfect cup of the GI tagged Darjeeling tea. He approaches the subject of brewing with surgical precision. To him, brewing a cup of Darjeeling tea is an art. 

First, he speaks of water. For Darjeeling tea, water must rest for a few seconds after boiling, waiting calmly to meet the leaves. Dhrubojyoti says that darjeeling tea is prepared using tea leaves sourced from the tea room’s own gardens , owned by the Apeejay group in Darjeeling’s Pankhabari. For one large cup of darjeeling tea, a tablespoon of loose leaf tea is enough. He says that after the water is heated just below boiling point and steeped for precisely three minutes, the tea is strained and served without milk.  “The leaves are delicate and one has to let them open slowly until the concoction assumes a golden to deep amber shade, which is the mark of a well-brewed cup of tea,” says Dhrubojyoti. 

Darjeeling tea comes in four main flushes or seasonal varieties: the floral and delicate first flush, the fuller-bodied and muscatel-rich second flush, the stronger monsoon flush and the mellow autumnal flush. The second flush is most prized for its rich enveloping notes and bright amber liquor.

The markers of a premium Darjeeling tea lie in its fragrance, whole leaf appearance, layered flavour and absence of bitterness.
Unlike the thick, malty, tannic chai made from fannings (small grainy particles of tea leaves) and CTC tea, which stands for crush, tear and curl, a processing method that produces small granular tea particles which brew quickly, give a dark colour, strong flavour and pair well with boiled milk, sugar, ginger, cardamom and spices. In Kolkata and much of Eastern India, roadside tea is often made using Assam CTC tea. 

From China to India

Acclaimed tea taster Dilip Kumar Banerji, in his book, I am Tea (1933) outlines that tea came from the Camellia group of plants which first originated in China in the 5th entury. “It soon spread to Burma, Japan, and then, through inquisitive explorers of the East India Company, tea was successfully planted in the soils of India.”

Dilip also outlines in his book that, Darjeeling tea belongs to a different emotional climate. It is called the “champagne of teas” by tea connoisseurs for its muscatel flavour, floral aroma and light-golden colour. Like the Champagne region in France, which enjoys geographical exclusivity and produces champagne that are bright, crisp and delicate, Darjeeling tea is exclusive to Darjeeling and is known for its delicate lightness, floral aroma and complex body. Grown across the misty slopes of Darjeeling at elevations often above 6,000 feet, the tea absorbs the peculiarities of mountain weather the way wine absorbs terroir. First flush Darjeeling, harvested in spring, tastes green and delicate, a child of its verdant green environs in spring. Second flush carries the fuller muscatel note tea drinkers speak about with great devotion.

And Kolkata understands the ritual of tea. This is a city where conversations begin with cha and end with another cup. Tea here is not merely consumed, it structures social life and is the nucleus of adda (conversation). Deals are negotiated over tea, heartbreaks are softened with tea, political theories are sharpened beside tea stalls balanced precariously on street corners. Yet, Darjeeling tea occupies a slightly aristocratic corner within Bengal’s tea imagination. It is less hurried, less sugary, less democratic perhaps. It belongs to old clubs, long train journeys to the hills, monsoon afternoons and porcelain cups that make a faint sound when placed carefully on saucers.

As the tea is poured into a porcelain cup, the amber toned brew catches the chandelier light like burnished gold. No milk. No ginger. No cardamom. Nothing to interrupt the fragile perfume of the hills trapped inside the leaves. Outside, Park Street hurries on, and somewhere between the first sip and the last curl of steam, Kolkata reminds us that even a restless city can pause for a good cup of Darjeeling tea. 

Published – May 21, 2026 07:01 am IST

Portions of houses damaged in a disaster-hit area following landslides, in Darjeeling, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025.
| Photo Credit: PTI

Kavach, the made-in-India system to help prevent accidents if two trains are travelling on the same line, was not available on the tracks in Darjeeling where the two trains collided today. At least eight passengers have died and over 50 others were injured after a goods train rammed the Kolkata-bound Kanchanjunga Express from behind.

As an old video of Railways Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw explaining the Kavach system went viral following today’s crash, officials said the system is yet to be installed in much of the rail network.

” The Railways plans to deploy the safety system on the Delhi-Guwahati route under its goal to cover over 6,000 km of tracks by next year. Bengal falls within the 3,000 km of tracks set to be protected by Kavach this year. The system will be applied to the Delhi-Howrah route,” Jaya Varma Sinha, Chairman of Railway Board told NDTV.

Currently, Kavach is in place on over 1,500 km of tracks. The Centre had planned to bring 2,000 km of rail network under Kavach during 2022-23 and aims to cover around 34,000 km of rail network. The Indian Railway system is over 1 lakh kilometres long.

“If Kavach was deployed, something like this accident could likely be avoided. However, it’s a costly system to operate,” former Executive Director of Railway Board Prempal Sharma told NDTV.
 

What Is Kavach?

Kavach is an automatic train protection (ATP) system, indigenously-developed by the Research Design and Standards Organisation (RSCO) with three Indian firms.

The security system controls the speeding of trains but also helps locomotive drivers to avoid missing danger signals and ensure that trains run safely especially in low-visibility conditions.

How does it work?

Kavach controls train speed by automatically braking if the driver fails to apply the brakes on time.

RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) tags are placed on tracks and at station yard and signals for identifying the tracks and locating the train and its direction. When the system is activated, all trains within 5 km will stop to let the train on an adjacent track to pass safely.

On Board Display of Signal Aspect (OBDSA) helps the loco pilots view the signals even when the visibility is low due to bad weather. Usually, loco pilots have to look out of the window to spot the signals.

The safety system sends a signal to a loco pilot when approaching a ‘red signal’ and applies automatic brakes if necessary to prevent overshooting the signal.

In 2022, Railway Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw said he had personally tested the safety system.

“Rear-end collision testing is successful. Kavach automatically stopped the locomotive before 380 m of other locomotive at the front,” he said in a post on X.

Here is a video of the Railways Minister explaining how the system works: 

Shri Ashwini Vaishnaw @AshwiniVaishnaw
Hon’ble Railway Minister briefs during live testing of #kavach automatic train protection technology in Lingampalli – Vikarabad section, South Central Railway #NationalSafetyDay@RailMinIndia@drmsecunderabadpic.twitter.com/jtW5EXECm3

— South Central Railway (@SCRailwayIndia) March 4, 2022

The system also relays SoS messages during emergency situations.

Darjeeling:

After polling for three North Bengal seats in the opening phase of the Lok Sabha elections on April 19, the BJP’s Darjeeling candidate Raju Bista on Sunday said people settled in the northern reaches of the state never supported the ruling TMC and will do the same in these elections as well.

“Seeing the mood here, it feels like it is almost confirmed that I will be the MP from Darjeeling for the second time. Last time, the margin was four lakh, this time the BJP will win this seat by an even greater margin. This is because people from the mountains had never supported the ruling TMC or the previous governments in the state. The ruling party in the state has always wronged us, while also subjecting us to oppression. We have been giving them a befitting reply to them for the last 15 years and wil do the same this time as well,” Raju Bista told ANI on Sunday.

Darjeeling has been a BJP bastion since 2009. The TMC has never won the constituency.

Reminding the Trinamool Congress of the movement for a separate Gorkhaland state, during which Darjeeling experienced widespread violence in 2017, Raju Bista said the TMC has never posed a challenge to its electoral opponents in North Bengal.

“TMC has never posed a challenge in North Bengal. Gopal Lama is a good person but he has chosen the wrong symbol. This is because Gorkhas cannot stand this symbol. 11 people lost their lives in 2017 owing to this symbol. Bloodstains are on this symbol even today and people can see it. Do you see any TMC flag in their campaign? He is doing politics hiding his party flag,” the BJP MP said.

Expanding on the alleged neglect of the Bengal government towards Darjeeling, Raju Bista said, “Mamata Didi will not get a single seat in North Bengal. This is because she collects more than 20 per cent of revenue from us but sets aside a budgetary allocation of Rs 800 crore of which only Rs 400 crore is spent.”

On Bharatiya Gorkha Parajatantrik Morcha (BGPM) chief Anit Thapa, who has been campaigning for TMC candidate Gopal Lama in Darjeeling, Raju Bista said, “Anit Thapa is a confusion. That is because he is campaigning as a candidate without Gopal Lama. People are confused who to vote for. This is because he is campaigning under a different symbol. They are using TMC’s funds for their campaign. He is trying to strengthen his party.”

Accusing Anit Thapa of indulging in corruption in Darjeeling, Raju Bista said, “There has been massive corruption under Anit Thapa. He has indulged in multiple scams in education, ‘Har Ghar Jal’ scheme, and PM Awas Yojana. He diverted municipality and panchayat funds. After April 25, the CBI will start its investigation.”

“We are facing double corruption, from the TMC and the GTA,” he added.

Speaking about the alleged poor state of the tea gardens in West Bengal, Raju Bista accused Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee of conspiring to shut down tea gardens.

“The situation across our tea gardens is grave. Mamata Didi wants our tea gardens to be shut down so that she sell off the land to mafias, who will construct big buildings here. This is her plan but we will not allow her to succeed in her designs. In 2021, the central government framed a law under which tea garden workers should get a minimum wage of Rs 350 and it also reinforces their right over their land. However, Mamata Didi has not implemented the law here,” the BJP candidate said.

On the work done by the central government in Darjeeling, Raju Bista said, “In Darjeeling, under the leadership of PM Modi, Rs 50,000 crore is being spent on infrastructure development. We have seen noticeable changes here in the last 10 years.”

“During the pandemic, when people were in distress, we got two doses of vaccines. People also received 5 kg of rice free of cost. This will continue for the next five years, till 2029, if we are elected. We have also received Rs 3,500 crore under the Har Ghar Jal scheme. We also received Rs 4000 crore to build a 5000-km stretch under the Gram Sadak Yojana. A new airport is also coming up at Bagdogra at a cost of Rs 3000 crore. Flyovers and highways are also being built to decongest traffic. We have not seen such work in the last 75 years, since Independence,” he added.

On a solution to the Gorkha problem in Darjeeling, the BJP candidate said, “In 2021, Bimal Gurung (founder of Gorkha Janmukti Morcha) sided with the TMC out of compulsion. However, deep down, he was with the BJP. A few days ago, PM Modi said in Siliguri that our government at the Centre has solved many complicated problems. We are also close to arriving at a solution to the Gorkha problem.”

Expanding on his priorities for the constituency if elected again, Raju Bista said, “We have several issues to resolve. One is on reaching a permanent Constitutional solution…some of our Scheduled Tribes who have been left out of the Scheduled Tribes list should be included. Several developmental projects need to be implemented in the next five years.”

“The health facilities in Bengal is very poor. I will focus more on this sector. Secondly, Darjeeling and Kalimpong used to be education hubs in the past. There is a need to open more central institutes here,” he added.

Coming down heavily on the Mamata Banerjee government for the alleged neglect towards tourism in Darjeeling, Raju Bista said there is a need to focus on youth employment in his constituency.

“Thirdly, I will focus on employment for youth because tea gardens are shutting down. There is no tourism activity here. The infrastructure needed to attract tourists is absent. The contribution of the Bengal government to this sector is almost nil. I want to skill our youth and get them employed in the tourism sector, MSMEs and startups,” Raju Bista said.

Also hitting out at TMC for allegedly smuggling drugs through the ‘Chicken’s Neck’, the narrow strip of land in Bengal that connects the Northeast with the rest of the country, Raju Bista said, “There’s been a noticeable rise in criminal and illegal activities in Chicken’s Neck stretch under the TMC. Drugs are making their way into schools, colleges and universities here. Our youth are getting distracted and need to be brought back on track.”

Darjeeling is scheduled to go to polls in the second phase of the Lok Sabha elections on April 26.

(Except for the headline, this story has not been edited by NDTV staff and is published from a syndicated feed.)